THE Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show held in Mildura in November showcased an array of emerging varieties now being grown across the country.
Well-known Melbourne journalist, wine writer and chief of judges Jane Faulkner said he could think of no better place to be than in Mildura during the first week of November to take part in and celebrate the Australian Alternative Varieties Wine Show.
“We have tended to be pretty Francophilic with chardonnay, shiraz and cabernet styles however there are two reasons people have embraced alternative varieties,” Ms Faulkner said.
“One is climate change, people are looking at varieties that are better suited to Australia which on the whole is a dry continent.
“Varieties that cope with heat and don’t need to be watered, like reds where you don’t have to tweak the acidity, that’s got to be a good thing and the whites as well.
“We’ve seen a rise in the plantings of fiano and vermentino and they’re looking pretty good.
“Secondly, people are more adventurous with their drinking habits, people travel, we have great bar restaurant scenes of Melbourne, Adelaide and Sydney and that helps push it as you can have something by the glass – a tempranillo blend from Spain or from Stephen Pannell who has been playing around with making delicious wines as a result.”
Right across the continent growers are embracing alternatives and in some areas such as McLaren Vale they are more proactive with a huge push towards Mediterranean varieties which is not surprising as it has a Mediterranean climate.
“They have really reassessed things in the last few years and are doing brilliantly,” Ms Faulkner said.
“Nero d’avola is a variety which does not need to be acid adjusted, it’s not a wimpy wine and makes a lovely delicious red which is better in summer as it’s not heavy and extracted and it makes good rose too.
“Growers should not to be frightened as these alternative varieties also work well in blends - more people are thinking smarter about their plantings and drinking habits.
“With several thousand grape varieties we have more to work with however not all of them are clearly equal.
“However, we’re reduced to five or six that dominate and that makes for a really narrow outlook and boring tasting.
“Every year at the Show there’ll be a variety or two we haven’t seen before that will come up and last year there were enough nero d’avola entries to have a class for it.”
The Show can boast a record in 2014 with more than 700, a hundred up on last year.
Judge Corrina Wright, a sixth generation member of the Oliver family and winemaker for Oliver’s Taranga in McLaren Vale also grows some of the Italian varieties with 6ha of fiano, 1.2ha vermentino and some sagrantino under vine along with 6ha Spanish tempranillo.
The 2014 Oliver’s Taranga fiano took out trophies for the Best White Wine and Best Italian White Wine at the Show.
“My company would never have made a white wine if we didn’t have access to alternative wines like vermentino or fiano as McLaren Vale chardonnay is a bit tropical/fruity and winemaking wise I’d have to add acid,” Ms Wright said.
“Fiano and vermentino are more resistant so we don’t have to worry about disease in the vineyard and fiano ripens about the same time or after shiraz which fits really well.
“It has high natural, acidity great texture, works really well with our food culture in the Vale being by the sea, as does vermentino.
“We are also one of the first in Australia to plant the Spanish variety Mencia.
“We planted it over four years ago now and as the vines are a bit juvenile at the moment so we are just making a little cheeky dry rose which is crisp and savoury.
“I am excited about making a red from it as the vines mature – it’s a cross between shiraz and pinot so will be a good medium bodied wine for the Vale.
“Shiraz and grenache in McLaren Vale have a natural fruit sweetness side to them whereas sagrantino and some of the other Italian varieties are all savoury down the line.
“I’ve also looked at some other varieties so we’ll see what happens down the track.”
Other trophy winners at the 2014 AAVW Show included 2013 SC Pannell tempranillo touriga which scooped the pool with Best Red Wine, Best Blend, Best Spanish Wine and The Dr Rod Bonfiglioli Best Wine of Show trophies.
The best rose went to 2014 Nova Vita Wines, 2012 T’Gallant Odysseus best nebbiolo, 2013 Calabria private bin vermentino for Best Murray Darling Region wine and 2013 Whistling Kite biodynamic montepulciano for best organic wine.
Beach Road Wines took out the International Judge’s Wine trophy with their 2012 Aglianico and their 2013 fiano won the Stewards Choice Award, the 2013 Rogue Series Hunter Valley vermentino was the chief judge’s Wine to Watch while Trans Tasman Award for Best New Zealand wine went to 2014 Waimea Gruner Veltliner.
The 2014 Best Italian Red wine went to Hither and Yon for their Nero d’Avola.
A 2013 Yalumba Y Series Termpranillo was Best Commercial Volume wine, while the trophy for Best Fortified saw Stanton and Killeen’s Rare topaque taking the prize.
The Best Label artwork was won by 2013 Next Crop graciano tempranillo
*Full list at www.aavws.com
